Holley mods

[outlaw77LT]

I spoke with a friend that tells me the Proform brand mainbody's ports and passages aren't as precise and clean from casting flash for a higher hp / rpm engine. I took mine back to Seco and got a refund.
Holley offers the exact mainbody they use on all their " HP / Pro Series " carbs. Monday I'm gonna go to CBI and get the Holley piece. It retails for $129.I plan on doing a very detailed thread with step by step pics so that anyone can do the mod. In it I'm also gonna show how to " true " all the surfaces back flat, install jet extensions, mill the material off the top of the large vaccum port for easy bowl removal for jet changes on the car, etc.
Here's the Holley kit
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u169/progersalbum/hly-134-300s_w.jpg

The kit comes with the main body, nonstick fuel bowl-metering block-baseplate-and fuel bowl screw gaskets, #72 & #84 jets, ( 2 )# 32 squirters, screw in air bleeds. It comes in the original zinc color and a dark chrome finish. I'm getting the shiny one and I'm gonna try out that Duplicolor jet coating to do the bowls and metering blocks. Here's a photo that can give you an idea of how much a Holley baseplate can warp in a little less than 2 years. Notice the clean parts around the edges, that shows how much warpage after truing it back up flat.
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u169/progersalbum/HPIM1393.jpg

After I post it, if anyone wants it done and is unsure they can do it, I'll do anyone's in the club for free ( you cheapskates WILL have to buy the parts )

[Eagle15]

What? Wait, buy the parts? You said free! LOL! :D:cool:

[Zachs Bank]

Thats Kenny for ya!!!!LMAOLMAO

[1badz]

I got a shiney main body a few months ago, it was a piece of junk, flashing everywhere and I returned that and got a proform, looked great, of course i still worked on it lol, but i got a pretty decent carb now, I may get it flowed one day for the **** of it, but I would guess its 800 to 850 out of the 750 main body

[outlaw77LT]

Was the 1st one you got a Holley brand piece? Did you install it or was that from a visual inspection? Was any of the defect due to the shiny plating they have on it? I hate to ask so many Q's but when it comes to carbs there's alot of power to be gained or lost due to port and passage efficency.

[glenoweth]

Nice Kenny I was thinking about getting the 1st set up you bought ,and i guess I am glad I waited ...ha-ha Thanks for making a step by step thread... that will be awesome.

You RockYou RockYou RockNot worthyNot worthyYou Rock

[outlaw77LT]

II just figured that since I was doing it I should do a how to thread on it. There's alot of adjustments that are overlooked and I'm gonna try to cover them as best as I can.

[Zachs Bank]

KennyYou RockYou RockYou Rock

[1badz]

it was a holley part, and there was a ton of flashing inside the venturies, some of it was almost 1/8 thick, i was not impressed. It may have been due to the shiney plating, but the underside of the flashing wasnt shiney so I cant blame it only on that. I dont know if they tuble those bodies, if they do that would explain some of the beat up sides, but not the flashing inside. I only looked at one main body in a box from holley, but i did look at some carbs on display and they had similar defects on them, but display carbs may have been ones that failed qc so i wouldnt judge them on that. I looked at the barry grant, proform, and quick fuel (proform center section anyway). all those carbs looked like quality pieces though.....so i went with a proform, and out of the box the surfaces that the metering blocks mount on were much flatter than the holley part (that may have been the shiney stuff) so was the throttle plate side, inside the carb the boosters, and venturis were much smoother , with no flashing and bearly a seam noticeable, I also noticed the top part above the boosters was much smoother casting wise then the holley. granted i only looked at one sample of each out of a box, but I dont want to **** the people off at summit too bad, since i do need to get parts there lol
I also used some tricks on the carb i built and billet metering blocks, overall I have to say that it is a cool carb, but I cant fit an air cleaner base over it lol

[outlaw77LT]

Well that figures. The Proform was in a clamshell package. I looked it over and, like you said,it looked fairly clean on the visible surfaces. I was skiddish on the passages cause of what I was told.

[1badz]

ok the proform i got from summit was in a box, i dont think that makes a hill of beans though, all the passages that can be seen through were excellent on the part i got from proform, but again, only one sample. I can tell you when it was on the dyno the air fuel map was smooth, no dips or spikes, but i also have billet metering blocks and adjust a jets ( they are awesome for a new engine, no pulling bowls! just cant fit an air filter under the hood lol, thats more from the car and hood than the carb though)

[outlaw77LT]

I used to run a Moroso 1" spacer and a drop base cleaner with a 2 1/2" element. I took the spacer off and used a Baldwin filter that's 3 1/2"+-, and the car picked up. I figured out that the lid was nearly on the choke tower, that's one reason for this change to a HP style body.
Thanks for the honesty on this, I may just go ahead and get a Proform from CBI anyway cause if you have dyno flow #'s on one then it's worth it, dynos don't lie.

[1badz]

I have only engine dynoed it at this point, I may take the carb over to get dynoed in the future, i need to contact them about that. I may change to larger throttle plates first, if i can find a donor 850 plate lol, right now i am using the smaller ones from the 650 750 and 830 carbs, the nascar cars use the larger plates with the 750 center and it flows about 950 when they are done playing with it, side by side the two center sections are pretty close, looking at a quick fuel and a holley hp, most of the boosters are smoother on the proforms though, holleys almost always have a rough edge on the outside, this center had a fine line there, i smoothed it, it probably wont change .00001% though lol, but the devil is in the details right? I was running a k&n filter top before i built this carb, and with the choke horn milled off even, it was pulling alot of air through the lid , ther was alot of rubber on it after one day at the track. I have since blocked the grille opening off and sealed the carb to the hood, so it only pulls from the cowl, looks cool when it backfires lol If i contact the shop that does the carb flowing i will post info

[outlaw77LT]

Thanks man, you know how it is , when it comes to parts on the Camaro I wanna get the right one. I've been wanting to do the carb for awhile.